Buttonhole machine



Oct. 18, 1938. F. A. RE'ECE BUTTONI-IOLE MACHINE Filed May 2 8, 1936 6 Shets-Sheet 2 F. A. REECE 2,133,360

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE Filed May 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 Oct. 18, 1938. F. A. REECE 2,133,360

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE Filed May 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Oct. 18,1938. F., A. REECE BUTTONHOLE MACHINE Filed May 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVEN+DRI Q MQLLQ.Q-M flymumqh.

F. A. REECE 2,133,360

Oct. 18, 1938.

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE Filed May 28, 1936 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVEN+ DR:

*c l fiy Patented Oct. 18, 1938 -UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 55 Claims.

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines, and especially, although not exclusively, to machines of the eye and fly-bar type,

that is to say, machines for sewing buttonholes having eyes at one end and so-called fly-bars at the other. In its complete development, as herein shown, the invention has for its object to provide a buttonhole sewing machine which, within the limits imposed by the design of the 10 particular machine, is substantially universally adjustable to sew buttonholes of any desired length, with or without eyes, and with or without bars, the eyes, when formed, being of independently variable length and width, the bars, 15 when formed, being likewise of independently variable length and width, the variability of the shape and size of the eyes being further independent of the variability of the shape and size of the bars and vice versa, and both being in- 1 dependent of the variability of the length of the buttonhole. The shape and size of the buttonhole produced is determined by simple adjustment of the mechanism and without interchanging parts, and the machine is completely automatic, so that, having been set or adjusted to sew a buttonhole of a given form and size, it will complete all of the operations necessary to sew such a buttonhole without further attention on the part of the operator. While the bvarious adjustable elements all coact with one another throughout the sewing of the buttonhole to constitute a single feed controlling mechanism for positioning the stitches in the desired predetermined arrangement, and while a ma- 5'". chine constituting a preferred embodiment of the invention includes all of the provisions for adjustability above enumerated, in some instances, and for certain classes of work, one or more of these adjustments may, if desired, be '6 omitted.

The invention will best be understood from the following description of an illustrative and preferred embodiment thereof shown in the accompanying drawings, this, however, having been chosen for purposes of exemplification only, as it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that said invention, as defined by the claims hereunto appended, may be otherwise embodied without departure from its spirit and scope.

6:: In said drawings:

Fig. 1 is a view, partly in side elevation and partly in longitudinal section, of substantially the complete machine.

Figs. 1a and 1b are fragmentary bottom plan 51views, partly in section on the line la|a, Fig. 1, of one of the lateral feed controlling elements.

Fig. 2 is a plan view, partly in section, of the parts shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary side elevation, partly oil' 'brokenaway, of a portion of the machine.

Figs. 4 to 9 inclusive are plan views of illustrative examples of buttonholes of various shapes and sizes which the machine is capable of sewing.

Fig. 10 is a rear elevation partly in section on the lines llll, Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig, 11 is a fragmentary sectional perspective View of certain of the lateral feed-controlling elements.

Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 15 are sections taken substantially on the lines |2--I2, I3-l3, I4Hl and ll5, respectively, Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 16 is a detail sectional View, taken substantially on the lines Iii-16, Figs. 13 and 17, of the lateral feed-transmitting lever.

Fig. 17 is a detail sectional View taken substantially on the line l'l'--l1, Fig. 16.

Fig. 18 is a detail perspective View of the yoke in which the lateral feed-transmitting lever is fulcrumed.

Fig. 19 is an enlarged detail section of certain of the parts shown in Fig. 14.

Fig. 20 is a detail perspective View of one of the lateral feed-controlling elements.

Fig. 21 is a fragmentary perspective view of the lateral feed-controlling assembly.

Fig. 22 is a detail perspective view of the disassembled parts of another of the lateral feedcontrolling elements.

Fig. 23 is a fragmentary plan view of the mechanism which imparts longitudinal motion to certain of the lateral feed-controlling elements.

Fig. 24 is a section taken on the line 24-44 of Fig. 23.

Fig. 25 is a perspective assembly view ofcertain of the lateral feed-controlling elements.

In Figs. 4 to 9 are shown, by way of illustration, a few of the different sizes and shapes of buttonholes which a machine embodying the present invention is capable of sewing. Each buttonhole includes the usual slit s which, in some instances, terminates in an enlarged opening constituting an eye 6, the whole being finished and surrounded by the usual buttonhole stitches.

As shown in Fig. 4 the buttonhole stitching includes two parallel lines of stitching a, a along the straight sides of the slit s, said lines of stitching being connected at one end by offset stitches c, c" with two superimposed lines of stitching b, b constituting a fly bar whose median line is in alinement with the slit 8, said stitches a, a being connected at the opposite end by offset stitches d, d with a line of radially disposed stitches 1 which, with the stitches d, d surround the eye 6.

In the buttonhole shown in Fig. 5, the slit 5 is longer and the eye opening e larger than in Fig. 4. Consequently the lines of stitching a, a are likewise longer, and the stitches d, d offset to a greater extent and extend longitudinally for a greater distance than the corresponding stitches in Fig. 4. Also the stitches b, b and c, c are omitted. The result is, therefore, a relatively long buttonhole with a relatively large eye but no bar.

In the buttonhole shown in Fig. 6, the opening e and offset stitches 11,11 are omitted and the stitches a, a directly connected by the radial stitches 1, thereby constituting a buttonhole without an eye. Also in this instance, the offsetting of the stitches c, c is less than that of the corresponding stitches in Fig. 4, so that the stitches b, b are not completely superimposed but are merely overlapped to form a broader fly bar which, as shown, is also somewhat shorter than the fiy bar of Fig. 4.

In the buttonhole shown in Fig. 7, the stitches b, b and c, c are omitted, as in Fig. 5, as are also the stitches d, d, as in Fig. 6, resulting in a buttonhole having neither an eye nor a fly bar.

The buttonhole shown in Fig. 8 is substantially like that shown in Fig. 4, with the exception that the longitudinal positioning of the stitches d, d is greater, somewhat as shown in Fig. 5, resulting in an elongated but relatively narrow eye 6.

The buttonhole shown in Fig. 9 is substantially like that shown in Fig. 5, except that the longitudinal positioning of the offset stitches d, d is somewhat less, as shown in Fig. 4, resulting in a relatively short, broad eye e.

The invention is herein shown as embodied in a machine of the general type disclosed in the Kiewicz Patents No. 1,696,893, December 25, 1923, and No. 1,726,153, August 27, 1929, and in certain other prior patents referred to therein. Referring to Figs. 1, 2 and 3, such a machine comprises a stationary bed 25 provided with suitable work clamps 26 (Fig. 1), and a stitching head 2'! carrying the stitch-forming mechanism and movable over the bed to position the stitches in work held by the work clamps in the formation of a stitched buttonhole. The stitch-forming mechanism comprises a laterally jogging needle 28 and cooperating loopers (not shown), together with actuating mechanism therefor including stitching stop mechanism, generally indicated at 29 (Fig. 3), for controlling the starting and stopping of the stitching operation. The stitching head 21 is moved longitudinally over the bed 25 by a main feed cam 24 carried by said head and rotated by mechanism indicated at 25 (Fig. 1), said cam having on its upper face a cam groove 30 engaged by a cam follower roller 3 la on a stud 3i projecting downwardly from the bed and having swivelled upon its upper end a block 3 lb guided in a straight longitudinal way 3Ic in the head. The cycle of operation of a machine of this type includes a longitudinal reciprocation of the stitching head of fixed amplitude determined by the shape of the cam groove 30, and comprising a rearward movement from a fixed starting point in the direction of the arrow X (Fig. 4) to a second fixed point at the eye end E of the buttonhole and a return movement in the direction of the arrow Y to the starting point where the machine is stopped by main stop mechanism, not shown. The location of the extreme end of the stitching at the eye end E of the buttonhole is fixed and determined by the point of reversal of the longitudinal movement, while the location of the end of the stitching at the bar end B, and consequently the overall length of said stitching, is determined by coincident points in the rearward and return movements at which the operation of the stitchforming mechanism is started and stopped, re-

spectively. To this end, the stitching stop mechanism 29 is controlled by a cam bar 32 (Figs. 2 and 3) attached, as hereinafter described, to an index plate 1 adjustably secured to the bed by a clamping bolt 8 extending through a longitudinal slot 8a in the latter, whereby the position of said plate, and consequently of said cam bar, longitudinally of the bed, may be varied to vary the period of cooperation of said cam bar with the stop mechanism. The needle 28 and cooperating loopers are carried by turrets 33 and 34 (Fig. 1) which are given a semi-rotation in one direction at the eye end of the buttonhole to position the radial stitches f (Figs. 4 to 9) as well as to position the stitches a-a', 0-0 and d-d at opposite sides respectively of the buttonhole slit, and an idle semi-rotation in the opposite direction upon the return of the stitching head to starting position and immediately before the machine is stopped.

Except as hereinafter pointed out, or as they enter into combination with parts hereinafter described, the parts above referred to constitute no portion of the present invention and may be of any usual construction and arrangement. Being fully described in the prior patents mentioned, they require no further description here.

Machines of this type, as more particularly described in the above mentioned Kiewicz patents, are also provided with lateral feed-controlling or stitch-positioning devices whereby the longitudinal feed movement of the stitching head may be compounded with lateral feed movements, or turning movements of the head about the axis of the stud 3!, to position the offset stitches c, 0' (Figs. 4, 6 and 8) in the formation of a fly bar, and to position the offset stitches d, 01' (Figs. 4, 5, 8 and 9) and (in combination with the rotation of the turrets 33 and 34) the radial stitches f in the formation of an eye. The present invention relates to new and improved lateral feedcontrolling or stitch-positioning mechanism of this general character. As herein shown, this mechanism is as follows:

Referring to Figs. 1, 2 and 23, the main cam 24 is provided on its lower face with a second cam groove 35 comprising outer and inner concentric portions 35a and 355 connected by inclined portions 350 and 35d. Said cam groove receives a cam follower 36 carried by a lever 31 pivoted at 38 to the cam case 39 which encloses said main cam. The lever 31 is provided with an arcuate slot 40 which adjustably receives a pin 4| (see also Fig. 24) by which said lever is pivotally connected with one end of a link 42. The end of the link 42 is bifurcated to embrace the lever 31, the bifurcations respectively receiving an enlargement 43 of the pin and a sleeve 44 thereon, between which and said enlargement the lever 31 is clamped by a nut'4la to fix the adjusted position of said pin in the slot 40. The foregoing construction is such as to permit a free turning movement of the link 42 with respect to the pin 4| as the lever 37 is actuated by the main cam. The opposite end of the link 42 is pivotally connected at 45 to an arm 46 fast on the lower end of a vertical rock shaft 4'! journalled in a bracket 48 carried by the stitching head. Secured to the upper end of the rock shaft 41 is a second arm 49 (see also Figs. 10 and 21) having a bifurcated end embracing a block 50 which is swivelled on a pin 5|, depending from a slide 52 (Figs. 11 to 13) The slide 52 is guided for movement longitudinally of the machine in ways 53 (see also Figs. 14 and 15) formed in a longitudinally disposed elevated portion 62 of the bed 25, conveniently called a bridge.

Pivoted intermediate its ends on a stud 54 (Figs. 1, 2 and 21) depending from the slide 52 is a combined cam member and lever 55 having on its under side two grooves 56 and 51 (see particularly Figs. and The groove 56 is straight throughout its length, while the groove 51 comprises a central sinuous portion terminating at both ends in straight portions. Adapted respectively for alternative engagement with the grooves 56 and 51 are two pins or studs 58 and 59 carried by one end of a lever 60. The pins 58 and 69 (see particularly Fig. 1'7) are formed with rack portions connected by a pinion 6| whereby, when one of said pins is moved into operative position in engagement with its groove, the other of said pins will be moved out of such position, the adjustment being maintained by a spring pressed positioning plunger 6|a having a conical end adapted for alternative engagement with two recesses 59a in the pin 59. The opposite end of the lever 66 is carried by a stud 63 (see particularly Figs. 1 and 15) which is swivelled in a suitable bearing in a bracket I 5 secured to the cam case 39 forming a part of the stitching head 21. Intermediate its ends the lever 66 is fulcrumed to a yoke 64 (see Fig. 18) having arms the upper ends of which are guided for longitudinal movement in ways 65 formed in the lower longitudinal edges of the bridge 62 (see particularly Figs. 13 and 14) The fulcrum comprises a bushing or sleeve 66 (see also Fig. 19) mounted on a headed stud 61 both of which extend through a slot 68 (see Figs. 1, 16 and 25) in the lever 60, the head of the stud 61 engaging the upper face of the lever, and the enlarged lower end 66a of the bushing or sleeve being mounted to turn in an opening M in the yoke 64. The lower end of the stud 61 is threaded to receive a nut 69 engaging the lower face of the sleeve 66, so that by tightening said nut the yoke 64, sleeve 66 and stud 61 may be clamped in the desired position longitudinally of the lever, or by loosening said nut the whole assembly may be moved longitudinally of the lever to vary the position of the fulcrum of the latter. The enlarged lower end 660. of the sleeve 66 is of suificient length to provide clearance between the lever 66 and the bottom of the yoke 64, and also provides a shoulder 66b between which and the head 61 the lever 60 is clamped, as above described, leaving said enlargement 66a free to turn in the opening I 4.

The radius of the arcuate slot 46 in the lever 31 is equal to the length of the link 42 measured between the axes of the pivots 4| and 45, and the position of said slot in said lever is such that, when said lever is at the middle of its throw, as determined by the inclined portions 350 and d of the cam groove 35, the center of curvature of said slot is coincident with the axis of the pivot 45. Consequently, while the amplitude of longitudinal movement of the slide 52 and member 55 is determined by the position of the pin 4| in the slot 40, said movement will be of equal, though variable; amount at opposite sides of a central position. The parts are so designed that, with the pin 4| at the innermost end of the slot 40, to provide the shortest longitudinal movement of the slide 52 and member 55, the pin 59, when engaged with the groove 51, will traverse at least the full length of the sinuous portion of said groove, other adjustments of said pin 4| with respect to the slot causing the pin 59 to traverse the straight end portions of said groove respectively to a greater or less, but equal, extent. Since the longitudinal movement of the member 55, whether of relatively large or small amplitude, takes place during a definite angular movement of the main feed cam 24, i. e., during a definite period of fixed duration in the cycle of operations of the machine, its speed of travel will be greater when the parts are adjusted to produce a relatively long movementthan when adjusted for a relatively short movement, and the period, in the cycle of operations, required for the pin 59 to traverse the sinuous portion of the groove 51 will be smaller in the former instance than in the latter.

The combined cam member and lever 55 is provided adjacent one end with an upstanding stud 10 (see Figs. 1, 11, 12, 20, 21 and 25) which projects through an enlarged opening H in the slide 52 and engages a straight longitudinal groove or way 12 in a slide 13 (see Figs. 1, 1a, 1b, 10 to 14 and 22) mounted for longitudinal movement in ways 14 (see particularly Fig. 15) in the top of the bridge 62. At a point about midway of the length of the groove 12, the slide 13 has guided therein for adjustment transversely thereof a second slide 15 (see particularly Figs. 1, 1a, 1b, 2, 11, 21 and 22) having a cam portion 16 adapted to project into the way 12 for a portion of the depth of the latter. The slide 15 has a shank TI threaded to receive an adjusting nut 18 having a grooved hub cooperating with a bifurcated bracket member 19 secured to and extending laterally from the slide 13, whereby the slide 15 may be adjusted to cause the cam portion 16 to project for a greater or less distance into the way 12 (see particularly Figs. 1a, 1b, 11, 12 and 22). Mounted in a recess 66 in the underside of the slide 15, and immediately opposite the cam projection 16, is a third slide 8| having head portions 82 guided on headed studs 83 projecting laterally from the main slide 13, said slide 8| being urged toward the Way 12 by springs 84interposed between said head portions 82 and the heads of the studs 83. The cam projection 16 is formed with inclined or bevelled sides 85a and 85b separated by a straight portion 86 corresponding in length to the longest fly bar which the machine is designed to sew. The length of the cam projection 16, measured transversely of the groove or way 12, is sufiicient to produce, through the connections hereinafter described, a lateral movement corresponding to the maximum lateral offsetting at the fly bar end necessary to cause the fly bar stitches b, b to be completely superimposed, as shown in Fig. 4, irrespective of the other adjustments. The inward movement of the slide 8| under the influence of the springs 84 is limited by engagement of the head portions 82 with the side of the slide 13, and the parts are so designed that when in this innermost position the inner edge of the slide 8| is substantially in alinement with the adjacent side of the way 12 at opposite sides of said slide, as shown in Figs. 1a and 1b. The wall of the way 12 adjacent the slide 6 i. e., immediately opposite the cam projection 16, is cut away laterally as shown at 12a (Figs. 1a, 1b and 11) an amount sufficient to permit the stud 16 to pass said cam projection when the latter is projected the maximum distance into said way as shown in Fig. 1a, the straight continuity of said wall in this region being normally maintained by the inner edge of the slide 8|, which edge substantially corresponds in length to said cut away portion, except when said slide is forced outwardly, in opposition to the springs 84, by said stud under the influence of said cam projection, as hereinafter explained. The outward movement of the slide 8| in opposition to the springs 84 is limited by the lateral depth of the recess 80 which is so chosen that when said slide is in its outermost position the distance between its inner edge and the edge 86 of the cam projection 16 is equal to the width of the way '12, that is to say, substantially equal, with reasonable clearance, to the diameter of the stud H1, and it will be observed that this relationship will be maintained irrespective of the lateral adjustment of the slide 15. When the slide 15 is adjusted to bring the edge 86 of the cam projection 16 flush with the adjacent wall of the way 12, as shown in Fig. lb, the outer end of the slide 8| is engaged by the outer end of the recess 80, so that said slide is rigidly held against outward movement and a straight, solid way is completed in this region between the inner edge of said slide and the opposite wall of said way below the slide 15.

The slide 13 is freely movable in its ways 14 in the bed frame bridge 82 to an extent determined by engagement of its ends with a pair of stops 8'! (see Figs. 1 and 2) carried by arms 88 having heads 89 in right and left threaded engagement with an adjusting screw 98 swivelled in the end of an overhanging arm 9| (Figs. 10 and 12), whereby said stops may be adjusted toward and from each other. The stops 81 are also adjustable in unison with and with respect to the stitching stop cam bar 32, and to this end the arm 9| is carried by a slide 92 guided in the bed 25 and connected to the rear end of a bar 93 (see also Fig. 3) the forward end of which is connected, through thebolt 8, with the index plate I which, in turn, is adjustably connected with the stitching stop cam bar 32 by a clamp screw 6 passing through a longitudinal slot 6a in said index plate. Adjustment of the index plate I and cam bar 32 in unison by means of the clamp screw 8 determines the overall length of the buttonhole stitching, while adjustment of the cam bar 32 with respect to the index plate I by means of the clamp screw 6 determines the portion of said stitching which constitutes the fly bar, all as hereinafter further explained. By adjustment of the screw 98, the longitudinal spacing of the stops 81, and consequently'the amplitude of free longitudinal movement permitted the slide 13, may be varied in accordance with the amplitude of the longitudinal movement of the slide 52 and member in the stitching head determined by the adjustment of the pin 4| in the slot 48, as above explained.

The adjustment of the mechanism above de scribed for the formation of a stitched buttonhole such, for example as that shown in Fig. 4, and which has a small, round eye and a long fly bar in which the stitches b, b are completely superimposed, is as follows. The index plate '1 is set by means of the clamp screw 8 in accordance with the length of the buttonhole slit s, including the eye e, in the manner usual in machines of this type, the stops 8'! being correspondingly set by reason of their connection with said index plate through the bar 93. The cam bar 32 is set by means of the clamp screw 6 in a relatively forward position with respect to the index plate I, so that operation of the stitching mechanism will be started by said cam bar at a point, in the cycle of operations of the machine as a whole, which is relatively early, and stopped at a point which is relatively late, with respect to the points at which the free longitudinal movement of the slide 13 is arrested by the stops 8?. The slide 15 is adjusted to cause the cam portion 16 to project for nearly, but not quite, the maximum distance into the groove 12. The pin 59 is engaged with the groove 51, and the pin 4| is set in an outward position'in the slot 58, so that the slide 52 and member 55 will be given a relatively long longitudinal movement, and the pin 59 will be caused to traverse considerable lengths of the straight end portions as well as the sinuous central portion of the groove 51. The fulcrum 61 of the lever is adjusted into a forward position or toward the left in Fig. 1, so that the amplitude of lateral movement of the stud 63 will be relatively small with respect to that of the pin 59. The stops 8'! are adjusted to permit a relatively long free longitudinal movement of the slide 73 in the bridge 62 corresponding to the longitudinal movement of the slide 52 and member 55 in the stitching head.

The parts having been adjusted as above described, the machine is started in the usual manher and the stitching head 2'! begins its rearward longitudinal movement (i. e., movement toward the right in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, or in the direction of the arrow X, Fig. 4) with respect to the bed and the work positioned thereon by the clamps 26, the first part of this movement being an idle one. During this movement, as well as during a considerable portion of the subsequent longitudinal travel of the head in this direction, the cam follower is in the concentric portion 35a of the cam groove 35, so that the slide 52 and 55 are held against longitudinal movement in the head, and the stud 18 moves idly in forward portion of the groove 12 until it reaches the cam projection 56. By reason of the action of the spring pressed slide 8| the stud F5 is yieldingly held against the forward inclined side 85a of said cam projection and prevented from passing the latter, as shown in Fig. 10., so that as the rearward movement of the head con tinues, the slide :8 is idly carried along with it until its rear end engages the rear stop 87, whereupon its free longitudinal movement is arrested. Thereupon the stud l5 rides up the inclined side 85a of the cam projection i6 onto the straight edge portion 86 thereof, forcing aside the springpressed slide 3!, thereby, since the slide 13 is held in its way M, Fig. 15, against lateral movement, moving said stud laterally. The lateral movement of the stud '58 causes the member 55 to be swung laterally, upon its pivot 54, this swinging movement being imparted through the pin 59 to the lever which, in turn, is swung about its fulcrum 65, El, and causes its forward end, through the stud 88, to swing the stitching head laterally about the axis of the longitudinal feed cam follower stud BI and bringing the stitching instrumentalities into the laterally offset position suitable for the formation of the fly bar stitches b. The stitching mechanism is then started, by cooperation in the manner usual in machines of this type of the stitching stop mechanism 29 with the cam bar 32, and, as the longitudinal movement continues, a series of fly bar stitches b is formed, the stud being guided in a rectilinear path between the straight edge 86 of the cam projection 16 and the opposing edge of the spring pressed slide 8| which at this time is in its extreme retracted position permitted by the outer end of the recess 88. When the stud 10 reaches the end of the straight edge 86 of the cam projection 16, and rides down the inclined side 85b thereof under the influence of the spring pressed slide 8|, the stitching head is gradually turned laterally back into its original position, resulting in the formation of the offset stitches c. As the longitudinal feed is continued, the member 55 is held against swinging movement about its pivot by engagement and travel of the stud 10 in the groove 12 and against longitudinal movement in the head by engagement and travel of the cam follower 36 in the concentric portion 35a of the cam groove 35, so that the head is held to rectilinear longitudinal movement in the formation of the stitches a. As the end of this operation is approached, the cam follower 36 is engaged by the inclined portion 350 of the cam groove 35, and the slide 52 and member 55 commence to move forwardly in the head, the slide 52 being guided for rectilinear longitudinal movement in its ways 53, and the member 55 being held against turning about its pivotal connection 54 with said slide by engagement of the stud 10 in the groove 12 of the slide 13 which in turn, is held against lateral movement in its ways 14. During the first part of this longitudinal movement of the member 55, the pin 59 traverses the forward straight end portion of the groove 51,

i but when the sinuous portion of said groove is reached the lever 60 is swung about its fulcrum 66, 61, and the stitching head is swung laterally about the stud 3| (the longitudinal feed of the 1 direction of longitudinal feed) forming the radial stitches f, and finally in the first named direction, thereby forming the offset stitches d. During the final portion of the forward longitudinal movement of the member 55, the pin 59 traverses the rear straight end portion of the groove 51, and the formation of the straight line of stitches a commences, the direction of longitudinal feed of the stitching head being new in the direction of the arrow Y. The cam follower 36 then reaches the concentric portion 35b of the cam groove 35, and the remainder of the stitches a are formed substantially as above described in connection with the stitches a, except that, during the forward longitudinal movement of the member 55, the stud 10 has moved forwardly in the rear portion of the groove 12 and substantially into engagement with the cam projection 15, and as the longitudinal feed progresses in the formation of the stitches a the slide 13 is carried idly forward with the stud 10. When the forward end of the slide 13 engages the forward stop 81, the free longitudinal movement of said slide is arrested, and the stud T rides up the inclined side 2351) of the cam projection 16, thereby acting through the member 55 and lever 60 to swing the stitching head laterally in the formation of the offset stitches c, said stud 10 being thereafter guided for rectilinear movement by the straight edge 86 of the cam projection 16 during the formation of the fly bar stitches b. It will be observed that, while the action of the cam projection 16 upon the stud I0 is such as to swing the member 55 on its pivot 54 in the same direction irrespective of the direction of longitudinal travel of the stitching head, said member 55 has moved longitudinally between the longitudinal feed in the direction of the arrow X in the formation of the stitches a and that in the direction of the arrow Y in the formation of the stitches a, causing the pin 59 to engage the groove 51 at the opposite side of the pivot 54. Consequently, the action of the lever 60 is to swing the stitching head in opposite directions during its longitudinal movements in the directions of the arrows X and Y, respectively, as is necessary in order to cause the fly bar stitches b and b to be offset in opposite directions from the stitches a and a, respectively. Upon the completion of the stitches b at the bar end B of the buttonhole, cooperation in its usual manner of the stitching stop mechanism 29 with the cam bar 32 causes the operation of the stitching mechanism to be stopped. During the remaining idle movement of the stitching head in the direction of the arrow Y to its starting position, the stud l0 rides down the inclined side 85a of the cam projection 16 and moves forwardly in the groove 12, the cam follower 36 engages the inclined portion 35d of the cam groove 35 so that the member 55 is moved rearwardly, and the turrets 33 and 34 are given their idle reverse semi-rotation, thereby restoring the parts to their original positions, whereupon the machine is stopped.

In order to form a shorter fly bar, as shown in Fig. 6, the cam bar 32 is set, by means of the clamp screw 6, in a relatively rearward position with respect to the index plate I, so as to cause the operation of the stitching mechanism to be started later and stopped earlier relative to the longitudinal movement of the stud 15 along the straight edge 86 of the cam projection 16. Consequently said stud will have traverseda greater or less forward portion of said edge before the stitching is started, and the rearward portion of said edge traversed after the starting and before the stopping of the stitching will be shorter than when said cam bar is connected with the index plate in a more forward position.

In order to form a wider fly bar, as also shown in Fig. 6, the slide 15 is adjusted to cause'the cam portion 16 to project for a less distance into the groove or way 12. Consequently, there will be less offsetting at the fly bar end, and the stitches b, b will be more or less spread apart laterally instead of being completely superimposed as in Figs. 4 and 8. While this adjustment of the slide 15 may thus be employed to vary the width of the fly bar, its chief importance is in permitting the exact superposition of the fly bar stitches b, b, as is usually desirable, irrespective of their width. In machines of this type it is customary to provide means for varying the amplitude of lateral jogging motion of the needle and consequently the width of the buttonhole stitches, or depth of bite, in order to adapt the machine to sewing of different types of material. When the depth of bite is changed, the amount of lateral offsetting of the fly bar stitches must be correspondingly changed if they are to be exactly superimposed; In other words, it is usually desirable that the width of the fly bar be equal to the width of the stitches of which it is composed, and in the present machine this relationship can be preserved, when the width of the stitches is changed, by suitable adjustment of the slide 15 to change the width of the fly bar correspondingly.

To form a buttonhole without a fly bar, as shown in Figs. 5, '7 and 9, the slide 15 is so adjusted as to bring the straight edge 86 of the cam projection 16 into alinement with the adjacent side of the way 12 and thereby form away which is straight and solid throughout, as above explained. Consequently there will be no lateral offsetting of the stitches adjacent the end B of the buttonhole. The same result can also be accomplished by connecting the cam bar 32 with the index plate I so far rearwardly that the stitching operation will not be started until the stud 1!! has completely passed the cam projection 16 when the longitudinal feed is in the direction of the arrow X and will be stopped before the free longitudinal movement of the slide 13 is arrested when the feed is in the direction of the arrow Y.

To form a longer eye, as shown in Fig. 8, the pin 4| is set in the groove 40 in a position nearer the fulcrum 38 of the lever 31. Consequently the longitudinal movement imparted to the slide 52 and member 55 during the fixed period while the cam follower 36 is traversing the inclined portion 350 of the cam groove 35 will be shorter, the pin 59 will enter the sinuous central'portion of the groove 51 earlier and leave it later in said period, and the offsetting of the stitches d and d will begin at an earlier point in the longitudinal travel in the direction of the arrow X and end at a later point in the travel in the direction of the arrow Y, respectively. Adjustment of thepin H in the groove 40 to vary the amplitude of longitudinal movement of the slide 52 and member 55 is accompanied by a corresponding adjustment of the spacing of the stops 8'! to vary correspondingly the amplitude of free longitudinal movement permitted the slide 13.

To form a wider eye, as shown in Fig. 9, the fulcrum of the lever 60 is adjusted into a more rearward position, so that the amplitude of lateral movement of the stud 63 produced by the traverse of the pin 59 through the sinuous portion of the groove 51 will be relatively greater. Consequently, the lateral offsetting of the stitches d, (2 will be correspondingly greater.

To form an eye which is both longer and wider, for example, the relatively large round eye shown in Fig. 5, both of the adjustments referred to in the two preceding paragraphs are made, as will be obvious.

The amplitude of the lateral movement imparted to the stitching head by the cam projection 16, acting through the studs iii and 59 and the levers 55 and 60, and the consequent amount of offsetting of the stitches c and c and the width of the resulting fly bar, will depend, first, upon the distance of the stud 59 from the axis of the stud 54 and, second, upon the adjusted position of the fulcrum of the lever 60. A given lateral movement imparted to the stud "ill by the cam projection 16 will produce a greater lateral movement of the stud 59 when the latter engages its groove 51 adjacent the outer end thereof than when it engages said groove in a more inward position. Similarly, a given lateral movement imparted to the stud 59 will produce a greater lateral movement of the stitching head when the fulcrum of the lever 55 is adjusted into a relatively rearward position than when said fulcrum is adjusted into a more forward position. Consequently, in order to form a fly bar of a given width, the slide '15 must be adjusted to cause the cam portion l6 to project into the groove 12 a greater distance when the machine is adjusted to form a relatively long or a relatively narrow eye than when the adjustment is for a relatively short or relatively wide eye. In practice, the setting of the machine for a given buttonhole can be readily eifected by making the adjustments in the following order: The pin 41 is first set in the slot 4|] in accordance with the length of the desired eye, and the fulcrum of the lever 60 is then adjusted in accordance with the width. The usual adjustments are then made for the required depth of bite, i. e., the width of the buttonhole stitches to be employed. Thereafter the adjusting nut 18 is turned to adjust the slide 15 to produce 7 a fly bar of the required width.

To form a buttonhole without an eye, as shown in Figs. 6 and '7, the pin 59 is disengaged from the groove 5'! and the pin 58 engaged with the straight groove 56. Consequently the longitudinal movement of the member 55 will produce no offsetting of the stitches adjacent the end E of the buttonhole.

It will be understood that, in addition to, and independently of, the above adjustments, the index plate 1 and attached stitch control cam bar 32 will be adjusted longitudinally in the usual manner in accordance with the length of the buttonhole slit, this adjustment effecting, through the bar 93, a corresponding adjustment of the stops 81, and the connection of said cam bar to said index plate by the clamp screw 6 being left unchanged if no change in the length of the fly bar is desired. The machine also includes provision, more or less usual in machines of this type ,and not shown herein, for varying the rate of longitudinal feed and the consequent longitudinal spacing of the stitches, so that, by adjusting the machine in this respect, the number and spacing of the radial stitches f can be chosen in accordance with the size of the eye. This mechanism may, if desired, be substantially as shown and described in the Ritchie Patent No. 1,515,754, November 18, 1924.

I claim:

1. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye at one end and a fly bar at the other, said machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch-formingmechanism and the work-holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole to form an eye and adjacent the beginning and end of the stitching to form a fly bar, said last named mechanism comprising a single set of lateral feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to vary the extent of said lateral motion at both ends of the buttonhole and thereby vary the form of both the eye and the fly bar produced by the same feed controlling devices.

2. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye at one end and a fly bar at the other, said machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, and feed controlling mechanism to produce relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole and to produce relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole to form an eye and adjacent the beginning and end of the stitching to form a fly bar, said feed controlling mechanism comprising feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to permit the forms of the eye and fly bar produced by said feed controlling devices to be infinitely varied to any desired extent within predetermined limits.

3. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means,

means to produce a relative longitudinal movement between the stitch-forming mechanism'and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and means to produce a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means while the eye end of the buttonhole is being sewed, said last named means comprising a single lateral feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to determine the point in the longitudinal movement at which the lateral movement begins and ends, thereby varying the length of the eye produced by said feed controlling device.

4. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye at one end, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, workholding means, means to produce a relative 1ongitudinal movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, means for rotating the stitch-forming mechanism while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and means to produce a relative lateral motion be tween the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means while the eye end of the buttonhole is being sewed, said last named means comprising a single lateral feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to determine the point in the longitudinal movement at which the lateral movement begins and ends, thus varying the length of the eye produced by said feed controlling device.

5. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and. means to produce a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and work holding means while the eye end of the buttonhole is being sewed, said last named means comprising a single lateral feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to vary both the length and width of the eye produced by said feed controlling device.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches laterally, said mechanism comprising a plurality of lateral feed controlling devices coacting throughout the stitch-forming cycle to control the lateral positioning of the stitches, said demechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches laterally, said mechanism comprising a plurality of lateral feed controlling devices coacting throughout the stitch-forming cycle to control the lateral positioning of the stitches, said devices being severally operative, each in conjunction with the other or others, during different periods in the stitching cycle, to produce offsetting of the stitches at different points lengthwise of the buttonhole, and said devices being independently adjustable to vary the extent of the offsetting at the several points respectively.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches laterally, said mechanism comprising a plurality of lateral feed controlling devices coacting throughout the stitch-forming cycle to control the lateral positioning of the stitches, said devices being severally operative, each in conjunction with the other or others, during different periods in the stitching cycle, to produce offsetting of the stitches at difierent points lengthwise of the buttonhole, and said mechanism being adjustable to vary the periods during which the several devices become operative to offset the stitches.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches laterally, said mechanism comprising a plurality of lateral feed controlling devices coacting throughout the stitch-forming cycle to control the lateral positioning of the stitches, said devices being severally operative, each in conjunction with the other or others, during different periods in the stitching cycle, to produce oiTsetting of the stitches at different points lengthwise of the buttonhole, and said mechanism being adjustable to vary, each independently of the other or others, the periods during which the several devices become operative to offset the stitches.

10. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye at one end and a fly bar at the other, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative lateral movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole to form an eye and adjacent the beginning and end of the stitching to form a fly bar, said mechanism comprising a plurality of lateral feed controlling devices coacting throughout the stitch-forming cycle to control the lateral position of the stitches, one of said devices being operative in conjunction with the other to control the lateral positioning of the stitches in the formation of the eye, and

the other of said devices being operative in conjunction with the first to position the stitches in the formation of the fly bar.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement laterally of the buttonhole between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby oifset the stitches laterally, said last named mechanism including a cam member and means for moving said member during a portion only of the stitching cycle and for holding the same against such movement during the remainder of the cycle.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement laterally of the buttonhole between the stitchfcrming mechanism and the Work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches laterally, said last named mechanism including a cam member and means for moving said member during a fixed period comprising a portion only of the stitching cycle and for holding the same against such movement during the remainder of the cycle, said last named means being adjustable to vary the range of movement of said cam member during said period.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and Work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and

mechanism for producing a relative movement laterally of the buttonhole between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby ofiset the stitches laterally, said last named mechanism including a cam member and means for giving said member a longitudinal movement in addition to the aforesaid relative longitudinal move ment between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during a portion only of the stitching cycle and for holding the same against such movement during the remainder of the cycle.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a button-hole having an eye, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the button-hole as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a cam member having a cam groove comprising a central sinuous portion and straight end portions, a cam follower in said groove, and means for moving said cam member when sewing around the eye adjustable to cause said cam follower to traverse greater or less portions of the end portions of said cam groove in addition to the central portion thereof.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing relative lateral movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a pivoted and bodily movable cam member, means for moving said cam member bodily when sewing one end of the buttonhole, and means including a second cam member for holding said first named cam member against turning about its pivot when moved bodily and for causing the same to turn upon its pivot when sewing the other end of the buttonhole.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing relative lateral movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a pivoted and bodily movable cam member, means for moving said cam member bodily when sewing one end of the buttonhole, and means including a second cam member for holding said first named cam member against turning about its pivot when moved bodily and for causing the same to turn upon its pivot when sewing the other end of the buttonhole, certain of said parts being adjustable to vary independently the amplitude of the pivotal and bodily movements, respectively, of said first named cam member.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing relative lateral movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means as the stitching progresses and thereby oifset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a pivoted and bodily movable cam member, means for moving said cam member bodily when sewing one end of the buttonhole, means including a second cam member for holding said first named cam member against turning about its pivot when moved bodily and for causing the same to turn upon its pivot when sewing the other end of the buttonhole, and means for transforming the movements of said first named cam member into the relative lateral movements aforesaid, certain of said parts being adjustable to vary independently the amplitude of the movements of said cam member and the amplitude of the relative lateral movement resulting therefrom respectively.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam slide having a limited free longitudinal movement and a cooperating cam follower adapted to move said cam slide within its limits of movement and to be actuated by said cam slide when the movementof the latter is arrested.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam slide having a limited free longitudinal movement, a cooperating cam follower adapted to move said cam slide within its limits of movement and to be actuated by said slide when the movement of the latter is arrested, and means whereby the limits of movement of said cam slide may be adjusted, thereby varying the period, during the longitudinal movement, of the actuation of said cam follower by said cam slide.

20. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, adjustable stitching stop mechanism for determining the points in the longitudinal movement when the operation of said stitch-forming mechanism begins and ends, mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam slide having a limited free longitudinal movement and a cooperating cam follower adapted to move said cam slide within its limits of movement and to be actuated by said cam slide when the movement of the latter is arrested, and means whereby the limits of movement of said cam slide may be adjusted independently of said stitching stop mechanism, thereby varying the period, during the stitching cycle, of the actuation of said cam follower by said cam slide.

21. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam slide having a substantially straight groove with a yielding section in one wall and a cam projection on the other wall opposite said yielding section, a way in which said cam slide is guided for a limited free longitudinal movement, and a cooperating cam follower movable in said groove and adapted, by engagement with said cam projection, to move said cam slide within its limits of movement and, by the yielding of said section, to be moved laterally by said cam projection when the movement of said cam slide is arrested.

22. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding means, means from said cam projection and normally spring pressed toward the latter to an extent to bring its edge into alinement with the adjacent edge of said groove, a way in which said cam slide is guided for a limited free longitudinal movement, and a cooperating cam follower movable in said groove, the movement of said third slide away from said cam projection being limited to the amount necessary to space its edge from said projection a distance substantially equal to the thickness of said cam follower.

23. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, one of said means being adjustable so that the time proportion between the lengthwise and transverse relative motions may be infinitely varied to any desired extent within predetermined limits.

24. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, one of said means being infinitely adjustable to any desired extent within predetermined limits, so that it will accomplish its relative motion during a greater or lesser extent of the relative motion produced by the other.

25. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, said means being relatively adjustable so that the time duration of one may be infinitely varied, to any desired extent within predetermined limits, with respect to the time duration of the other.

26. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a fly-bar buttonhole, said machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms lengthwise of the buttonhole, a cam and connections to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse of the buttonhole at the beginning and ending of the sewing of the buttonhole, and means to shift said connections and thereby reverse the direction of said relative motion imparted by the cam between the beginning and ending of the sewing of the buttonhole.

27. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing an eye buttonhole, said machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, and mechanism to produce relative feeding motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms lengthwise and transverse of the buttonhole, said feeding mechanism being infinitely adjustable to vary, to any desired extent within predetermined limits, both the length of the eye and the width thereof.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism forrelatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a cam member having a cam groove comprising an operative portion of limited length efiective to produce lateral movement, and a cam follower in said groove, said mechanism being adjustable to cause said cam follower to traverse greater or less portions of said cam groove in addition to the operative portion thereof during the same portion of the stitching cycle.

29. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said sttichforming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole as the stitching progresses and thereby offset the stitches, said last named mechanism including a cam member having a cam groove comprising an operative portion of limited length effective to produce lateral movement, a cam follower in said groove, and means for moving said cam member during a fixed period comprising a portion only of the stitching cycle, said last named means being adjustable to vary the range of movement during said period and thereby cause said cam follower to traverse greater or less portions of said cam groove in addition to the operative portion thereof.

307A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam member having a substantially straight groove with a yielding section in one wall and a cam projection adjustable into said groove for a variable distance opposite said yielding section.

31. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named means including a cam member having a substantially straight groove, a slide guided in said cam member for movement transversely of said groove and having a cam projection, said slide being adjustable to cause said cam projection to extend for a variable distance into said groove, and a second slide mounted in said first named slide for a limited movement toward and from said projection and yieldingly pressed toward the latter to constitute a yielding section of the wall of said cam groove opposite said projection.

32. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a lateral feed controlling element and connections including a lever pivotally connected with both of said relatively moved parts,- one of the pivotal connections being adjustable longitudinally of said lever whereby to vary the extent of said lateral movement.

33. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole, and mechanism for producing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole during said longitudinal movement, said last named mechanism including a cam movable with respect to both of said relatively moved parts, a lever cooperating with said cam and connected with one of said parts, and an adjustable fulcrum for said lever reacting against the other of said parts.

34. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other, the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement defining one end of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means lateraly of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism including motion transmitting connections adjustable to cause said lateral movement to take place at equal periods, infinitely variable to any desired extent within predetermined limits, at each side of said point of reversal of the longitudinal movement.

35. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other, the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement defining one end of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means laterally of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism including a member movable to produce said lateral movement and means for moving said member adjustable to cause said lateral movement to take place at equal periods, infinitely variable to any desired extent within predetermined limits, at each side of said point of reversal of the longitudinal movement.

36. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other, the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement defining one end of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and-work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism including a member movable to produce said lateral movement, means for moving said member in one direction for equal periods at each side of said point of reversal of the longitudinal movement, and means for guiding said member during its movement in said first named direction, said last named means acting also to move said member in another direction adjacent the other end of the buttonhole.

37. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, means for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one'direction and then in the other, the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement defining one end of the buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism including a member movable to produce said lateral movement, means for moving said member in one direction including connections adjustable to cause said lateral movement to take place at equally variable periods at each side of said point of reversal of the longitudinal movement, and means for guiding said member during its movement in said first named direction and for moving the same in another direction adjacent the other end of the buttonhole.

38. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, a cam and connections for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other, said cam having a dead center position corresponding to the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement. a second cam movable, during a period corresponding to equal angles of movement of said first named cam at opposite sides of said dead center position, to produce a relative movement of said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole, a third cam for so moving said second cam, and connections between said second and third cam adjustable to cause the lateral movement produced by the former to take place during variable angles of movement of said first cam.

39. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, a cam and connections for relatively moving said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means longitudinally of the buttonhole first in one direction and then in the other, said cam having a dead center position corresponding to the point of reversal of said longitudinal movement, a second cam movable in one direction, during a period corresponding to equal angles of movement of said first named cam at oopposite sides of said dead center position, to produce a relative movement of stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means laterally of the buttonhole, a third cam for so moving said second cam, connections between said second and third cam adjustable to cause the lateral movement produced by the former to take place during variable angles of movement of said first cam, and a fourth cam for guiding the movement of said second cam during its aforesaid movement and for moving said second cam in another di rection to produce another relative lateral movement of the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means during another period of the buttonhole stitching cycle.

40. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitch-forming instrumentalities, work-holding means, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch-forming instrumentalities and Work-holding means both longitudinally and transversely of the buttonhole, said last-named mechanism including a single set of feed controlling devices and elements adjustable to vary the relative time duration of the movements produced by said devices.

41. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, workholding means, and mechanism for causing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means around a buttonhole having an eye at one end and a fly bar at the other, said mechanism comprising a single set of lateral feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to vary said relative movement and thereby cause eyes and fly bars of any desired size and shape to be produced by the same feed controlling devices.

42. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, workholding means, and mechanism for causing a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means around a buttonhole having an eye at one end and a fly bar at the other, said mechanism comprising a single set of lateral feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to produce any desired variation of said relative movement within the range of the machine and thereby cause eyes and fly bars of any desired size and shape within said range to be produced by the same feed controlling devices.

43. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch forming devices, Work holding means, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch forming devices and work holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and mechanism to give a relative lateral motion between the stitch forming devices and work holding means during the sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism comprising a single lateral feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to vary the time duration of the lateral movement with respect to the longitudinal movement, whereby eyes of different sizes may be produced by the same feed controlling device.

44. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch forming devices, work holding means, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch forming devices and work holding means both longitudinally and transversely of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism comprising a single set of feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to any desired degree within the range of the machine to vary the time duration of one of said movements with respect to that of the other, whereby eyes of any size within said range may be produced by the same feed controlling devices.

45. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch forming devices, work holding means, and mechanism for relatively moving said stitch forming devices and work holding means both longitudinally and laterally of the buttonhole, said last named mechanism comprising feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts rela tively adjustable to vary infinitely, to any desired extent within predetermined limits, the point in the longitudinal movement at which the lateral movement begins and ends, thereby varying to the same extent the length of the eye produced by said feed controlling devices.

46. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, one of said means comprising a single feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable so that the time proportion between the lengthwise and transverse relative motions may be varied.

47. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, one of said means comprising a single lateral feed controlling device and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable so that said feed controlling device will accomplish its relative motion during a greater or lesser extent of the relative motion produced by the other means.

48. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise 0f the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the button hole, said means comprising feed controlling devices and connections, and including parts relatively adjustable to permit the time duration of the several relative motions produced by said feed controlling devices with respect to each other to be infinitely varied to any desired extent within predetermined limits.

49. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing an eye buttonhole, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, and mechanism to produce relative feeding motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms lengthwise and transverse of the buttonhole, said feeding mechanism comprising a single set of feed controlling devices, and including parts relatively adjustable to vary both the length and the width of the eye produced by said mechanism.

50. A buttonhole sewing machine having workholding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to give the work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism a relative work feeding movement, means to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, means to move the stitch-forming mechanism transversely of the length of the buttonhole while the eye end thereof is being sewed, said lastnamed means being adjustable to vary independently either the length of the eye or the width thereof.

51. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a buttonhole having an eye, said machine having stitch-forming mechanism, work-holding means, and mechanism to produce a relative movement between the work-holding means and stitchforming mechanism to form the stitches along the side of the buttonhole and around the eye thereof, said mechanism being adjustable to vary independently either the length of the eye or the width thereof.

52. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing a button hole, said machine having work-holding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to produce a relative movement between the stitchforming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, and means to produce a relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and workholding means while the eye end of the buttonhole is being sewed, said last-named means being adjustable to vary independently either the length of the eye or the width thereof.

53. A buttonhole sewing machine having workholding means, stitch-forming mechanism, means to produce a relative movement between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means in the direction of the length of the buttonhole, means to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism while sewing around the eye end of the buttonhole, and means to produce a .relative lateral motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and Work-holding means while the eye end of the buttonhole is being sewed, said last-named means being adjustable to vary independently either the length of the eye or the width thereof.

54. A buttonhole sewing machine for sewing an eye buttonhole, said machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, and mechanism to produce relative feeding motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms lengthwise and transverse of the buttonhole, said feeding mechanism being adjustable tovary both the length and width of the eye to an extent determined by predetermined liniits, and by a plurality of different amounts between and in addition to said limits.

55. A buttonhole sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, work-holding mechanism, means to produce a relative motion between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding mechanism in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, means to produce a relative motion between the work-holding and stitch-forming mechanisms transverse to the lengthwise direction of the buttonhole when sewing the eye of the buttonhole, one of said means being adjustable so that the time proportion between the lengthwise and transverse relative motions may be varied to an extent determined by predetermined limits, and by a plurality of different amounts between and in addition to said limits.

FRANKLIN A. REECE. 

